from the how to from the MN

*note this is not my work credit goes to aresix6*

Okay...here is a tentative how-to on the conversion. I know, there are no pics, but my camera was not working properly. I am tossing around the idea of compiling various pics from around this board of those who have done this mod and use them in this guide (with the owners permission, of course). Anyway, it's a work in progress and I'd love to hear from some of ya'll that have done this mod as well. This is how I experienced it. I think if all of us who have done this combine our knowledge base, we can have one heck of a guide here. I actually got part of this off the internet a few years ago and I can't find it anymore. I had printed it out and it was sittin in my desk for some time. I just elaborated and adjusted it as necessary as I went along with my conversion. Like I said, sorry no pics. Let me know what you guys think....

BTW... this mod was done on an 02 R6. I can't make any claims as to how different it is on an 03+...
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R1 Parts Required (all other parts are re-usable)

- Forks
- Upper Triple Clamp
- Lower Triple Clamp
- Front Fender with Hardware
- Left and Right Clip-Ons

Step 1
Safety first! Disconnect GROUND cable on battery
1. Remove (2) 5mm Allen bolts located at rear below the rider's seat
2. Remove (1) 10mm or Phillips bolt on Negative (-) post on Battery
3. Relocate Black Ground Wire away from battery

Step 2
Install Rear Swing Arm Stand on a level, smooth surface

Step 3
Remove Front Fender
1. Remove (2) Phillips Screws
2. Remove (2) 8mm bolts with 10mm nuts behind it
3. Remove Fender by sliding towards the FRONT

Step 4
Remove Upper Fairing
1. Remove Left and Right Ram Air covers ((2)-Phillips screws each cover)
2. Remove Left and Right Mirrors ((2) 10mm nuts each)
3. Remove 10 Phillips screws retaining upper fairing assy.
(6) Silver Phillips screws on the sides (3 Left, 3 Right)
(4) Green Phillips screws around and behind the headlamps
(2) Black plastic Phillips retainers below the Ram Air inlet
(2) Black plastic Phillips retainers on inside fairing covers, near radiator
4. Pull the COMPLETE upper fairing assembly PARTIALLY away from the steering to disconnect the following:
5. Disconnect Left and Right side marker lamp connectors
6. Disconnect WHITE connector below Upper Fairing Stay
7. Disconnect Connector behind Gauges (Pull back black rubber cover to gain access)
NOTE: At this time, the Ram Air Grille may fall out unless you remove it yourself by reaching it from behind the headlights, along with the rubber “coupling” that connects the two duct inlets together
8. Set aside Upper Fairing/Headlamp assembly to a safe location
9. Remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the ram air inlets to the Fairing Stay Bracket
10. Loosen (2) Phillips screws that secure front section of Air Duct to rear section (hose-clamp type connection)
11. Remove Air Duct assembly and put away in a safe place

Step 5
Remove Upper Fairing Stay Bracket
1. Remove (2) 12mm bolts attaching bracket to the frame
2. Set aside Upper Fairing Stay Bracket with Gauges

Step 6 (Optional - really no need, but ensures no damage)
Remove Mid and Lower Fairing Panels

Step 7
Remove COMPLETE Front Brake Assembly as ONE UNIT
1. Remove 8mm bolt on each fork leg retaining brake hose holder
2. Set holder's aside
3. Remove (2) 12mm bolts attaching Brake Caliper on each fork leg
4. Slide each brake caliper off the brake disc, and let it momentarily hang
5. Using a pair of wire cutters, snip the thinnest piece of the Lower Triple Clamp COVER to allow the brake hose to be removed on each side
6. Using a pair of standard pliers, slightly open the wire brake hose holder on the Lower Triple Clamp and slide the brake hose out
7. Remove Tie-strap holding brake hoses to upper Right fork leg
8. Disconnect Horn Wires, remove tie-strap holding horn wires to Lower Triple Clamp
9. Remove (2) 5mm Allen bolts holding Dust Cover/Brake Line Holder Bracket
10. Pull Bracket away enough to reach (2) 10mm bolts securing Brake Line Holder to Bracket
11. Disconnect Brake Light Switch Wires from underneath Brake Lever
12. Remove (1) 8mm bolt retaining Master Cylinder Reservoir to Upper Triple Clamp
13. Remove (1) 8mm bolt attaching Master Cylinder Reservoir to Clutch Cable Holder Bracket
14. Supporting the Master Cylinder assembly, remove (2) 8mm bolts retaining the master cylinder clamp on the
right side Clip-On
15. Set aside the complete front brake assy. ensuring the master cylinder is hanging ABOVE the brake calipers
NOTE: DO NOT squeeze the brake lever once the brake calipers have been removed. You can also place a thin object between both sets of pads to keep the caliper pistons from coming out

Step 8
Remove Front Wheel
1. Loosen (1) 6mm Allen Axle pinch bolt on RIGHT side fork leg
2. Loosen (NOT remove) front wheel axle
NOTE: Be careful not to tip motorcycle over!
3. Using a standard scissor jack (Easily found in many foreign cars), raise the motorcycle in front by placing the jack below the header exhaust pipes. There is spot with a sheet of flat metal welded to it, raise it there.
NOTE 1: Make sure motorcycle remains steady on rear stand as you raise the front!!!
NOTE 2: Using a measuring tape, measure the distance between the BOTTOM of the steering neck of the frame (just above the lower triple clamp) and the CENTER of the wheel axle. Save this measurement for future reference when re-installing the R1 forks.
4. NOW remove the front axle
5. Remove Front wheel and set aside in a safe place

Step 9
Remove Upper Triple Clamp
1. Using a plastic/wooden knife or fingernail, "pop" off the black plastic caps located on the "inner" end of each Clip-On. (1) Per Clip-On
2. Remove (1) 5mm Allen bolt located beneath each plastic cap on each clip-on
3. Remove Bar Ends on BOTH Clip-Ons.
4. Using a medium size zip-tie (or similar object), lube with some silicone spray/oil then slide it beneath the Left handgrip until it reaches the switch. Using some "twist" force you will loosen the "seal" and be able to pull the handle grip off
5. Remove (2) Phillip screws attaching the Turn Signal Switch to the LEFT handlebar
6. Remove the Turn Signal Switch and immediately re-assemble switch with both screws
7. Allow Choke Cable to hang. If Choke Lever falls off, store in a safe place for later use
8. Loosen the 10mm pinch nut on the Clutch lever holder
9. Disconnect the Clutch safety switch located just below the clutch cable adjuster
10. Loosen the LEFT Clip-On 6mm Allen pinch bolt
11. Remove the LEFT Clip-On from the LEFT fork and at the same time SLIDE the clutch assembly off
12. Allow Clutch assembly to hang
13. Remove (2) Phillip Screws attaching RIGHT side Kill switch, leave Phillips screw that holds throttle cable in place
14. Loosen 6mm Allen pinch bolt on RIGHT side clip-on
15. Remove RIGHT side clip-on from RIGHT Fork; to do so, you will need to PARTIALLY split the Kill Switch assembly. This will allow you to SLIDE the Kill Switch AND Throttle Grip as one unit off the RIGHT side clip-on
16. Immediately re-install both screws onto the Kill switch
17. Cut/Remove Tie-strap retaining Ignition Lock/Switch harness to Lower Triple Clamp
18. Remove Upper Triple Clamp center mounting nut using a 1.25" Socket
19. Remove washer located just below nut
20. Loosen (2) Upper Triple Clamp pinch bolts located on both Fork sides
21. Remove Upper Triple Clamp assembly and lay aside
22. At this point, the R6 Ignition Cylinder needs to be removed. To do this, I used a dremel with a pencil adapter and small cone-shaped grinding stone to grind down the heads of the (2) bolts that secure it to the Upper Triple Clamp. It worked well, but still took some time. Be prepared to grind for about 30 minutes. I found grinding worked better than drilling. Once done, though, you’ll be satisfied you did this instead of using an R1 cylinder and lengthening the wires and having to carry (2) different keys.
Note: Be sure to cover everything that’s exposed with some towels or something similar as well as cover the air duct inlets, there will be a lot of metal particles flying around and you don’t want those inside the air box (even though there is a filter, why take a chance?). It’ll also make for less of a mess to clean later.
23. With the Ignition Cylinder separated from the Upper Triple, let it hang to the side and find a creative use for your now-useless R6 Upper Triple

Step 10
Remove Lower Triple Clamp and Fork assembly
1. Remove Steering Stem Retainer/plate located just below the Upper Triple Clamp
2. Remove Steering Stem Upper "jam" nut. (May require using a C-spanner wrench, I used a large flat tip screwdriver and a dead-blow hammer to tap it in the slots to loosen it)
4. Remove and set aside rubber washer
5. While supporting the Lower Triple Clamp and Fork assembly, remove the Steering Stem Lower Nut and set aside
6. Remove Stem/Lower Triple Clamp/Fork assembly through neck and set aside.

Step 11
Remove Forks from Lower Triple Clamp
1. Loosen ALL (4) 6mm Allen pinch bolts on Lower Triple Clamp
2. Using a Flat-blade screwdriver spread each side of the Lower Triple Clamp to allow each fork to slide out

Step 12
Swap Steering Stems
1. Due to the difference in Stem length (approximately .75"), both stems need to be swapped
2. Unless you have a Hydraulic Press handy, you will need to visit your local machine shop, auto parts store, or dealership and have them PRESS/REMOVE the Lower Bearing Races and Stems on BOTH the R1 Lower Triple Clamp and the R6 Lower Triple Clamp
NOTE: The Stems on both Lower Triple Clamps are tapered and secured with a snap-ring! Care must be taken to have the stems pressed DOWN! This means the LONG exposed end of the stem will go through the triple clamp when properly pressed
3. Using the R6 Stem (with snap-ring) and R1 Lower Triple Clamp, you insert the R6 Stem into the R1 Clamp until it bottoms out on the snap-ring
NOTE: Pressing is not required to re-install the R6 stem into the R1 Clamp, but it is a tight fit. I had to sand it lightly to make it smooth and really get on it with a dead-blow hammer. If you’re having somebody press it out, just have them press the new one on as well as the bottom race…it’ll save you time and a little aggravation.
4. Install the lower bearing
NOTE: Do not forget to install the dust seal BEFORE installing the new lower bearing!

Step 13
Reassembly
1. The reassembly process is the reverse of disassembly but we need to keep a couple of factors in mind
2. Using the fork measurement taken prior to disassembly, we have a very good starting point and setting to set the fork height in the triple clamps
3. Some custom fabrication is required to reattach the original horn, dust shield and master cylinder reservoir (I just ditched the dust cover...)
4. On the R6, unless you decide to remove your Ram Air covers, the R1 clip-ons will be ABOVE the Upper Triple Clamp
5. Unless you are using Aftermarket Clip-ons, there will be a small gap between the clip-on and Upper Triple Clamp where the alignment/index bolt goes, you can be creative and come up with a “cover” to hide the alignment bolt
6. Fasten all steering fasteners to factory specifications as per R1 specs
7. Measurements will need to be taken from the original R6 Clutch Side Clip-On. The alignment holes on this clip-on which align and hold the switch assembly needs to be transferred/re-drilled to the R1 Clip-On. The Brake Lever side went in just fine for me (but I may have gotten them off ebay from somebody who already attempted the swap and had the hole pre-drilled. I never did find out, so double check the other side as well)
8. Unless you plan to CUT and remove the original ignition/lock assembly from the R6 Upper Triple Clamp, you will need to extend the wiring harness on the R1 Ignition Cylinder
9. If you have a side mounted steering damper, you will need to get a replacement Fork Clamp in the size of 54mm (Original R6 size: 43mm)