Various electrical questions

Bought a race-prepped track bike (2009 R6) last year that I am now trying to convert back to street use; I just don't go to the track very often anymore. I'm having a couple issues:

#1 - Headlights won't turn on

Service manual says:

1. Check bulbs - They're fine
2. Check main/headlight fuses - Headlight fuse is fine. Main fuse looks a little green, but it's not broken so I guess it's fine.



3. Check/charge battery - Have to push start the bike (been a while since I've ridden it, so battery is dead) but the headlights won't turn on when the bike is running
4. Check the main switch - What the fuck is a main switch?





5. Check the dimmer switch - Bought a left handlebar control on ebay, doesn't guarantee it works
6. Check the relay (on/off) - I have a little multimeter thing from RadioShack, but it tells me to connect the relay to a 12V battery. What is the best way to go about doing this?





7. Check the relay (dimmer) - Same thing
8. Check the entire lighting system's wiring - No

#2 - Brake lights won't work

I'm missing the little sensor that screws into the front brake lever, so I'm guessing this is the problem. Running lights work fine.

I think it is this part:

Ron Ayers Microfiche

8, 4HM-83980-00-00, FRONT

#3 - Do I need a horn?



I don't have a horn, and I don't have the sensor on the left clipon that these little clips would plug into. So, other than not having a horn, is there going to be any issue from not having a horn plugged in?

Thanks in advance!

nope, i've unplugged and uninstalled my horn before with no ill effects from other electronics.

Main switch is the kill switch - Red rocker on the handlebars that shuts the bike down.

With your meter, select OHMS. Ω ..... Connect a test lead to #3 and the other test lead to #4 (the horizontal ones in the picture - makes no difference red/black) - if you have a reading on the meter, you should be good. (Knowing the exact resistance across the coil is dependent upon the specific relay.. if i had to guess... 200Ω ... but as long as its not ZERO or 0L .. you should be fine.

Then check your power and ground to the relay.

Set the meter to VOLTS DC.

Place test leads in the openings where the relay plugs into. (leave relay out). With test leads in # 3 and 4's holes and bike running, check voltage.... Should be 12+volts or so. - this is what turns the relay on and off. If you dont have power/ground, something in the control side of the circuit is bad.

Next check voltage on the other side of the relay. Place your test lead on the negative battery terminal, and the other in #1 - then #2. Do either have 12+volts? If you dont have power, something is bad in the supply side of the circuit.

Good to know about the horn. Maybe I should use the lack of horn as an excuse to install an air horn? Haha.

Wouldn't the kill switch be the "engine stop switch" on the diagram? I was thinking the main switch might be the ignition switch...but I don't know what "R, BrL, L/B, L/Y" in the diagram is referring to. Colors of wires? Is it telling me to check that the switch is working by measuring voltages, or just making sure that my ignition/engine cutoff switch/whatever is on?

I checked the resistance of the relay last night. I got a 0L. I wasn't sure if that meant I was doing it wrong or if the relay was bad. I guess the relay was bad. I'll check voltages tonight.

Thanks, Mike/Nate.

Good call on the engine stop switch.. i didnt read it well enough, merely saw the simple switch and left it at that. You are right... From the looks of it, the "main" is going to be the ignition switch... and yes... those reference wire colors at the switch.

Jon, FWIW, West Coast GP Cycles track-prepped that bike, which included removing the headlights. You may give Andy a call to see if he did anything there that might affect the wiring. I would assume his normal MO would be to just unplug the wires and leave them dangling. I actually taped and ziptied those off just in case it was run in the rain IIRC. It was a couple years ago that we did that...

Also IIRC, when we safety wired that bike for the one race Harry ran it in, we removed the left side bar switch, clutch safety switch, (it's a part of the left side bar harness. You don't really need to have the safety there, it's just there to make sure you don't try to start the bike without the clutch pulled in if the bike is in gear.) Lastly, we jumped the kickstand safety switch since you can't have a kickstand for racing.

On the main switch, yeah, those are the 4 wires. Red and black are the main circuit, the other two are switched for some reason. I just jumped those two together when I installed a toggle switch in place of the ignition. I think R, BrL, L/B, L/Y, in order, are Red, Black with a red Line, light blue, and light yellow? Don't quote me there though, it's been a while since I've had to dick with those wires on mine.

If you need a horn I have one for my 06, which I bet is the same P/N as yours. I can give it to you next time we meet up if you want it.

Much appreciated, Danny. I don't think it's any of the wiring. Like you said, it looks like the wires were unplugged and left dangling. I'm pretty sure it's the relays.

You did a hell of a tape job! As I was removing the tape to get to the plugs I was thinking..."man, someone really took their time to make this look good. I wonder if DD did it?" Haha

By the way, I might be moving up to LA (near LAX) in the near future. Putting this beast back to street use may be just a waste of time if that happens.

As for the horn, I think I'm fine without it. Vigilant riding and throttle are better use of my reactions.

Originally Posted by MikesyamahaR6

With your meter, select OHMS. Ω ..... Connect a test lead to #3 and the other test lead to #4 (the horizontal ones in the picture - makes no difference red/black) - if you have a reading on the meter, you should be good. (Knowing the exact resistance across the coil is dependent upon the specific relay.. if i had to guess... 200Ω ... but as long as its not ZERO or 0L .. you should be fine.

Mike, I've checked 3 different relays (2 headlight relays and a fan motor relay)...I get 0L on all of them when I connect the probes to #3 and #4, but I do get a reading when I connect the probes to #1 and #2.

What are the chances that all 3 relays are bad?