Ride Smart, Ride Safe: A Guideline How-To for Buying Gear

A Buyers Guide to Motorcyclists Protective Clothing

Originally Posted by bikesafe.co.uk

Modern cars are fitted with seat belts, air bags, side impact beams and whole a whole host of advanced safety features but, unfortunately, even this is not enough to prevent the thousands of road deaths we see each year.

So when you consider that the only protection afforded to a motorcyclist is the shell of a garment - the importance of choosing to wear a product that is designed and manufactured to the highest performance standards cannot be overstressed.

- The information contained in these posts was pulled (and trimmed) from knowledgeable vendors, information websites, and personal rider experiences.

- I'll try to list major brands (good and not so good), as well as sizing information, and anything pertinent to safety.

- I'll also list them by perceived quality (and by perceived I mean their reputation among riders, racers, and this forum).

- This is by no means an end all, be all list of what to buy or what not to buy. Think of this more of a buyer's guideline for gear.

- The one common denominator here is, buy the BEST quality riding gear you can afford. Never settle for something inferior.

- Remember, in the event of an accident, your gear is the only thing that's protecting you from the pavement.

- Beyond that, your gear should fit your riding style, your needs, and most of all it should fit you.

**If you have any information to add, or change, please send me a PM**

Let's start from the top and work our way down..

- Helmets -

Brands (Best, Better, Good)

Tier 1 - Arai, AGV, Suomy, Shoei, Shark, Schuberth, etc.
Tier 2 - Scorpion, Icon, OGK, HJC, KBC, Vemar, Nolan (X-Lite), etc.
Tier 3 - Bell, Nitro, Akuma, Joe Rocket, Z1R, Fulmer, etc.

Fitment

When choosing a helmet, you'll want something that fits snug around your head, but not too tight. Just snug enough so that your skin moves with the helmet, and it won't move around or buffet in the wind. If it's too tight, you'll feel "hot spots" or pressure points which can bring a horrible headache.

Originally Posted by Light3

Watch the video (below). He's talking about an Arai RX7. He tries it on and

shows how it fits. No pressure points. if you were going to wear it for a while, you don't want it to

give you a headache. Again, snug that the skin on your face moves as you move the helmet (check

the vids for a visual).

YouTube - ARAI RX-7 Helmet review from Sportbiketrackgear.com




Motorcycle Helmet Sizing, Shapes and Comfort

Choosing a motorcycle helmet would be easy if it was simply matter of picking out a size and a color.

Unfortunately, different brands of helmets or even different models within the same brand can have

a completely different fit and feel – and cost has nothing to do with it, because some of the least

inexpensive helmets will fit and feel better than helmets costing twice as much or more.

Apparently, many motorcyclists don’t realize that in addition to size, motorcycle helmets come in a

variety of different internal shapes. Shape is one of the most important factors to understand when

purchasing a motorcycle helmet. Helmets are expensive, and if you can only own one, it should be

the highest quality, best fitting helmet you can find within your budget constraints.

In fact, it's almost impossible to find the "perfect" fit, or even an acceptable fit, without trying on at

least several different helmets and wearing each one for an extended period of time. Even a helmet

that feels great in the shop may feel like a medieval torture device after only a few minutes on a

motorcycle.

Obviously, the problem of finding a helmet with the correct fit will be compounded when purchasing

from an online vendor, because the sale is usually completed without actually seeing the helmet and

without trying it on.

Safety is the primary reason for wearing a motorcycle helmet, but one of the most important factors

to consider when purchasing a new helmet is comfort. Any protection that a helmet can offer is of

no value if it is too uncomfortable to wear.

Comfort has several factors. For example, the material that makes up the motorcycle helmet's liner

should feel comfortable against the skin. The internal padding of the helmet should act as a

comfortable cushion between the head and the helmet internals, and the liner shape should perfectly

match your head shape. The perfect helmet would be so comfortable that the rider would forget that

it’s there.

The internal helmet shell structure on poorly designed helmets can have protrusions or shapes that

press through the padding and into a sensitive area on your head and cause pain, rawness and

headaches, so there should be no pressure points from these areas. The chin strap should be

comfortable and have smooth padding that doesn't rub the neck. The visor should have an opening

that doesn't block the vision and which can be easily adjusted for air flow. And the helmet shouldn't

be too hot or too drafty.

In our experience, it can take at least up to an hour of actual riding to determine whether a

motorcycle helmet will have an acceptable level of comfort. Therefore, we recommend that you try

before you buy. Forget about being self-conscious, and try wearing the helmet at a local motorcycle

shop for at least 30 to 45 minutes to minimally determine if it will be comfortable.

Many helmets will feel comfortable (or not) for the first minute or so, but be aware of any "hot spots"

or pressure points that develop over time. Make sure there's enough front-to-back room so that the

chin isn’t pressing up against the inside of the chin bar. Try clenching your teeth -- the helmet

should provide enough room for you to keep your mouth closed without undue discomfort. And

buckle it up, to see how the attachment system works and to make sure the chin strap is acceptable.

Note that a comfortable fit in the motorcycle shop still can't duplicate the riding experience, because

of factors like noise and wind pressure that can greatly affect helmet fit and comfort, but it's better

than buying a helmet site unseen.



Motorcycle helmet head shapes




Round Earth Oval Egg Reverse Egg


Know Your Head Shape

Although human heads have an infinite variety of shapes and sizes, they unfortunately can't be

custom ordered or exchanged - at least not quite yet! You're stuck with what you came with.

It's our opinion that head shapes can be grouped into five basic categories. It's important to know

what your head shape is and which helmet brand and model will fit by matching your head shape to

the helmet's internal shape. Not every helmet will fit the same, and almost every helmet brand and

model is different.

This isn't to say that head shapes only match these categories. Like many natural occurrences, head

shapes fit into a normal distribution. There are very narrow, “long oval” head shapes, and there are

very wide “earth” head shapes, and every combination in between. It's possible to have

combinations of any and all of these shapes in an infinite number of variations.

Fortunately, many motorcycle helmets are available with internal shapes that roughly match these

four head categories. Some helmets can be slightly modified with optional padding available from

the manufacturer. The problem is that there doesn't seem to be much logic to the design of

motorcycle helmet internals, especially at the lower price points. Color, graphics and cool-looking

features apparently drive sales, rather than important factors like comfort, shape and perceived noise

levels.

Profit issues motivate the helmet manufacturers, especially at the lower end, to sell helmets with a

generic shape that will meet the minimum fit requirements for the maximum number of potential

customers. This is an important factor, because the generic internal helmet shape may not fit your

individual head.

This problem is compounded because each helmet manufacturer may have a slightly different idea

of the generic shape, and each model within a brand can fit differently than its shelf mates. That's

why the chances of finding a good fit increase as the number of different brands and models of

helmet are tried on prior to purchase.

Some manufacturers, like Arai, have developed helmet models that are specifically engineered to fit

different head shapes, and they use this as a market differentiator. As far as we know, Arai is the

only manufacturer to capitalize on internal helmet shapes as a selling point.

It remains a mystery as to why other manufacturers don't exploit this obvious market need, or at

least offer a variety of helmet liners for riders to develop their own semi-custom shapes.

Anyway, back to the five categories of head shapes. We've arbitrarily labeled the different head

shape groupings and have given them the following descriptions (in no particular order):

* Round - Shape A in the matrix above.
* Oval - Sometimes known as "long oval", which is said to be the most common American head shape;
* Earth - The Earth shaped head is somewhat wider in the middle, approximately near the temples;
* Egg - Wider at the top and narrower at the bottom.
* Reverse Egg - Slightly narrower at the top than at the bottom.



Safety


Motorcycle helmet approval stickers - Standards and Certifications

The most common certification on motorcycle helmets in the U.S.A. is the U.S. Department of

Transportation (DOT) certification. A listing of U.S. DOT approved helmets is available for download

from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).

To obtain the right to place the "DOT" sticker on the back of a motorcycle helmet, the manufacturer

must meet The Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) known as FMVSS 218

(49CFR571.218). FMVSS 218 describes in great detail the requirements for "DOT" certification of all

helmets sold in the United States for use by motorcyclists. Helmets that do not meet the minimal

DOT certification standards may not be sold as "motorcycle helmets" in the U.S.A.


Is it Snell Approved?

The Snell Memorial Foundation is an additional certification source intended to provide testing and

"Snell" certification to a different standard than FMVSS 218. The Snell certification doesn't replace

the DOT certification and is in fact a voluntary standard.

As of this writing, the Snell certification is called M2005. Snell also lists a comparison of DOT vs.

Snell vs. BSI 6658:1985 vs. ECE 22.05 requirements for certification.


All motorcycle helmets sold in the U.S.A. must be DOT certified, but they are not required to be Snell

certified. A motorcycle helmet that carries both DOT and Snell certification may have gone through

different testing schemes, but may not necessarily be superior to helmets that carry only the DOT

certification, although many motorcyclists look for both DOT and Snell certification. Snell publishes

a listing of motorcycle helmets that are Snell certified on their website.


One more certification that you may also come across is the British Standards Institute (BSI) standard

BSI 6658:1985. It's our understanding that this certification is being superseded by ECE 22.05.



Venting


Back in the old days, motorcyclists didn't have to worry about venting and air flow, because all

helmets were open-face. Bell claims to have designed the first full-face helmet in 1966, and full-face

helmets started appearing on the heads of motorcyclists in the 1970's. The first full-face helmets

were heavy and they had shapes that made the rider look something like a deep-sea diver. Venting?

Sure, open the visor!

Motorcycle helmet air vents now come in all shapes and sizes, and the flow of air through a helmet is

considered to be an important comfort factor.

No standard for vent shapes exists and there doesn't seem to be any particular system that works

better than others. The most common air flow methods used are variations on chin bar vents, top

vents and exhaust vents in the back of the helmet.

Unfortunately, the efficacy of a helmet's venting system can only be judged during a ride, not in the

motorcycle shop. It's impossible to comment on the design or number of vents and their

effectiveness without trying the helmet, either behind a fairing or windscreen or on a "naked" bike.

Some features to consider include simple opening and closing mechanisms that can be easily and

smoothly operated with gloved hands and that positively shut off air flow, and direct paths for the air

to flow on to the rider's face or head.



Visibility


There's a myth that's perpetrated by the anti-helmet law faction that claims that motorcycle helmets

decrease peripheral vision. The truth is that no motorcycle helmet would last very long in the

marketplace if it blocked the owner's view of the road. Every full-face helmet that any of us have

ever tried had an opening wider than our peripheral vision. This is easy enough to check when

trying on a helmet.

Some helmets have a greater top-to-bottom vertical visor height than others. Sportbike owners

sometimes need wide visors due to the lower handlebars and the sportbike "crouch" necessary when



Helmet Attachment and Straps


The tried-and-true "D-ring" attachment system is widely used, very reliable and is used on every

racing helmet that we are aware of. Other "quick release" systems have been developed, but like

trying to build a better mousetrap, none have improved on this basic attachment system, and most

are more complicated, failure prone, and fussy to operate. Our advice is to stick with the D-ring

system.

A D-ring is infinitely adjustable and there are no springs to wear out or plastic and metal latches to

break. All of the quick release mechanisms we've tried make it very hard to adjust the tightness of

the helmet straps. Accessory quick release latches that are user installed should also be avoided,

because they can add too much length to the helmet's strap, making it difficult to adjust correctly.

Our opinion is that quick release latches are a solution in search of a problem.

One thing to look for is a button or Velcro attachment for the extra piece of chin strap that's usually

left dangling after the helmet is secured. Sometimes, this extra piece can be tucked up under the

attached chin strap, but it's usually more comfortable to have a method of securing the end of the

strap. Make sure you know how your system works and that it fits correctly before purchasing the

helmet.



Liner


Motorcycle helmet liners can vary in design, comfort, materials and shape. Since the liner is the

primary interface between the rider's head and the helmet, make sure that it's compatible with your

needs. Most liners feel comfortable the first time the helmet is worn; if it doesn't, that's a sure sign of

problems later on. Make sure there are no "hot spots" or pressure points, especially against the

temples, forehead and cheeks. This is where it pays to try the helmet on in the local shop.



Color


Helmet colors are a personal choice, but remember that the ability to be seen in traffic is one of the

most important safety issues to consider. A rider's motorcycle helmet is usually the highest point on

the motorcycle, so a bright color that is visible to traffic has the potential of going a long way

towards increasing visibility.



Modular or "Flip-Up" Motorcycle Helmets


Volumes could be written on the subject of flip-up helmets. They can be especially useful for

motorcyclists who wear eyeglasses, because it is sometimes easier to fit the eyeglasses under the

helmet prior to closing the visor.

Unfortunately, the pace of evolution for flip-up helmets by the motorcycle helmet manufacturers

seems to be much slower and more deliberate than for other helmet styles. Some flip-up helmets

are ECE 22-05 certified, and many are DOT approved in the U.S.A., but the Snell Memorial

Foundation has not, as of this writing, certified any flip-up helmets.

There are also no studies that we are aware of that compare the differences in potential safety

between open-face, flip-up and full-face helmets. Unfortunately, the result is that the motorcyclist is

on their own when trying to make a purchasing decision relative to the efficacy of this type of

helmet. This can lead to decisions made solely on the basis of marketing hype.

Is a full-face helmet inconvenient? Maybe...but so are full leathers, back protectors, gloves, race

boots... and I wear those all the time. It's part of motorcycling for me.



Conclusion


Know before you buy. Learn all the facts. Don't buy a motorcycle helmet based on perceived image

or marketing hype. It's important to try on a helmet and wear it for an extended period of time to

compare fit and feel. Wear earplugs. And wear the helmet on every ride!



Check - Motorcycle Helmet FAQ - webBikeWorld - for more helmet fitment info.

MotoGP Helmets

What do MotoGP riders wear? The Grand Prix Commission (Dorna, FIM, IRTA, MSMA) reaffirmed the

rules for 2006 in the Road Racing World Championship Grand Prix Regulations (verbatim): Sporting

Regulation 2.11.7 - "Helmets must be of the full face type and conform to one of the recognised

international standards:

- Europe ECE 22-04 & ECE 22-05 "P"
- Japan JIS T 8133 : 2000
- USA Snell M 2005

- Leather Suits/Leather Jackets/Leather Pants -


Brands (Best, Better, Good)

Tier 1 - Alpinestars, Spidi, Dianese, RS Taichi, Clover, Spyke, Vanson, etc.
Tier 2 - Teknic, Frank Thomas, Fieldsheer, AGV Sport, AXO, Kobe, RST, Shift, Clover, Wolf, Joe Rocket, etc.
Tier 3 - Tour Master?

Custom Leathers - SYED, Vanson, Z Custom


Fitment

When choosing a leather jacket or suit, find something that fits well. Look for something that fits snug, but not too tight. You want the leather to be very snug at first, so when it breaks in after a few rides (or Saturdays sitting on the couch ) it will be "molded" to your body.

Also take into consideration your riding style. If you're just going to be crusing alot, look for a jacket/suit with a more relaxed frame. If you're going to be racing, or sport riding, look for some leather with the race curve/pre-curved sleeves.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


From Motostrano's Website - (very heavy on Alpinestars advertising)

A one or two piece leather suit is usually a relatively significant investment for most riders. The cost alone is the reason so many riders don't own a suit, let alone a good quality jacket. It's safe to say that a majority of street motorcycle riders ride with less than ideal riding gear. Given that fact, riding with any real protective gear other than a helmet is a step above the rest. Nevertheless, our opinion is that you should own and use the best quality riding gear that you can afford. Beyond that, your gear should fit your needs, your riding style and most of all it should fit you.

We are often asked what the difference is between the low end and high end suits. It comes down to the amount of features the suit has, the quality of the leather, the quality of the interior of the suit, the quality of the armor (if the suit features any), the type and amount of stitching in the suit. The more expensive the materials and the more time needed to make the suit, will make up the cost of the suit. Like anything, you tend to get what you pay for and poorly made suits will not only protect you less, but won't last as long just during the regular use of the suit.

Features to look for in a suit include:

* Leather type, either cowhide, kangaroo or goat (goat? )
* Leather thickness and suit weight
* Type of venting and perforation features
* Type of padding and protection
* Type of spine protection, aero hump, or inserts
* Slider type and hardness
* Type and quantity of stitching
* Internal lining, removability
* Insert pockets or snap-ins for back protectors
* Stretch material used


Protection

The first thing you need to understand about motorcycle protective gear is that leather, whether cowhide or kangaroo skin, is always more protective than any type of textile (fabric) material currently available. Textile motorcycle gear is light weight and therefore comfortable, easy to get in and out of and breaths well, but there is a reason that no pro or amateur racer today is using textile gear on the track. Textile suits and jackets do not protect riders as well as leather in a crash. Today's suit manufacturers do use textile materials in parts of the suit that rarely experience impact or stress, such as under the arms, the groin and of course in the lining of a suit.

The qualities of leather make it a very difficult material to burn or tear in a crash slide situation. This isn't to say that textile jackets and pants shouldn't be owned and used for regular street riding, but of the two, leather offers more protection. Various types of leather and a wide range of leather thickness is used across all manufacturers.

You can really look at a leather suit as a 2nd, very thick skin, that is worn over your body. Sewn into this skin, in any serious leather suit, will be protective strategically placed armor for even more protection and then stretch panels and liners for comfort and cooling. In a crash situation, the leather protects from impact force that would otherwise tear your skin and sliding abrasion that would otherwise scrape your skin off. Impact armor is there to absorb as much of any impact energy as possible.

Higher end leather tends to be thinner and soft, therefore lighter and more comfortable for the rider, than heavy-weight leather. Thin, soft leather also takes less time for the suit to break-in than heavy weight leather. Thin leather, taken to the extreme may be comfortable, but can also no longer be fully protective, or if it is, is only a 'one-crash' garment.

Leather suits are typically offered in "one piece" and "two piece" varieties. One piece suits provide the best protection of the two types, due to the fact that there are less seams that can be subject to tearing during an impact situation. A two piece suit is slightly more versatile than a one piece suit, since it can be unzipped at the waist and be ridden as a jacket alone. Some manufacturers, such as Alpinestars, offer separate jackets and track pants that can be zipped together to make a full-type suit. Usually, however a riding jacket zipped to a riding pant does not zip all the way around the waist.

Increasingly, hi-tech suit manufacturers such as Alpinestars feature injection molded hard-plastic protection on their suits, combining leather protection with impact-absorbing hard body armor. This brings us to the topic of armor. Body armor is the part of the suit designed to protect the rider's body from hard impact with the ground or other objects. Many leather riding jackets on the market today have no body armor in them at all. The other important part of a suit or jacket is the impact absorbing armor. Higher end suits today use "CE Approved" hard plastic and/or multi-layored memory foam armor inserts at these impact areas. Utilizing hard armor and various types of foam and padding, creates an energy absorbing zone through out the suit, protecting the rider during heavy direct impact crashes.

Protection zones to look at include:

* Shoulders
* Elbows
* Spine
* Hips
* Knees
* Shins
* Chest
* Thighs


Alpinestars' higher ends suits, now offer exterior hard plastic protection in certain areas. This serves to protect the rider even more by putting the protection inserts as the first point of contact with the impact object.

The bare bones distinction between a high quality suit and low quality suit can be said to be the quality of the leather and the quality of the stitching. A high quality well-made suit can withstand the most brutal of slides and still stay together, protecting the riders skin. Lessor quality leather matched with poor stitching is what causes a suit to 'blow up', or come apart on a rider during a crash. It takes a certain amount of skill, learned proprietary knowledge and craft to produce a suit will live up to the task.


Comfort

Next to protection, what any suit or jacket spends most of its time doing is keeping you comfortable. Mainly, this means that the suit should fit you well, so that you will want to wear it. An overly heavy suit with no venting on a hot day, won't be your first choice when you go to suit up for a day's ride in the street. An overly uncomfortable suit will also have the affect of being a distraction to your riding when you are on the bike. You want your suit to fit as good as possible.


Sizing

Especially when ordering online, sizing questions are one of the first things on people's minds. As a retailer with both a web site and a retail showroom of our products, we don't necessarily recommend that that you go and try on a suit at your local dealer and buy the item from us. Kinda tacky and most motorcycle dealerships don't offer a wide variety of sizes in their showroom for you anyway.

Sizing across all manufacturers varies. Some makers size their suits in US Sizes, others in European Sizes. The difference in numbers is that European sizes are 10 above US sizes. So, if you tend to wear a size 42 US jacket, you'd be a size 52 in European sizing.

When we speak to customers on the phone who don't know what size they are, the questions we ask are:

* What's your height
* What's your weight
* What size US suit jacket do you wear
* What's your waist size


Using these questions we can usually get the sizing right in a few seconds. This is, however, as long as the rider isn't exceptionally built in the shoulder, stomach or thigh areas. Some, though few, riders will simply not fit well in any off the shelf suit.


Fitment

You want your suit to fit as snug as possible, even to the point of being a little constraining. Your new leather suit should at first be border-line uncomfortable when you first try it on. A new suit will give a half a size to a size after a few times of using the suit. Leather gives to an extent to form to the rider's shape and size. First time suit buyers are typically lost when it comes to trying on suits because they want the suit to fit perfectly the moment they try it on. A good fitting suit should be very snug on the few times of use. A perfectly fitting suit has few creases, baggy points and folds, yet is just snug enough to be a little tight on the rider. You shouldn't be able to grab a hand full of leather easily and bunch it up in your hand if the suit is fitting well. The suit should fit as well as possible, like a second skin, tight to your body.

Most first time suit owners try on a suit and want the knee protection and sliders to be up on their knees. Look at this photo of Eric Bostrom with his knee down and slider in full action and you'll have an idea of where you want your sliders to be in relation to your knees. Knee armor should stop at about the middle of your knee cap. Knee, elbow and shoulder amour shouldn't be loose on you.



The other point that first-time suit owners often overlook is that your suit is designed to fit you best when riding the bike. You're not going to use your suit to go out on a date and although showing up at your favorite rider gathering area and posing in a full race suit looks cool, that's not what a well made suit is designed for and we hope that's not playing in your purchasing decision. A race suit is designed to be in the riding position, leaned over and aggressively positioned. It's designed to fit the rider comfortably while riding the bike. We speak with folks all the time who get the suit on and complain they can't raise their arms over their head. Ok- great! you're not going to want your arms flailing over you head if you get off the bike- you'll want some restriction there.

Features

When considering the features of a suit, you'll realize quick that the higher cost suits offer the most advanced features. If you can't spring for the big buck suit, you can still get a quality protective suit that fits, without having to settle for a low end suit that will come part on you while riding, or just plain be uncomfortable while riding. The full range of Alpinestars suits is designed to fit within most riders' budgets and still offer world-class features such as CE Approved armor, soft leather, venting and interior lining.

Another important point to consider is that there are a multitude of suit manufacturers on the market today. A good amount of them utilize the racing scene as a marketing and sales tool for their products. It makes good sense to look at which riders are riding with what suit brand, because these guys have careers and lives to protect and they crash all the time. They want to be around at the finish line, but realize too, that pro racers usually have custom suits built for them by their sponsors. What your favorite pro racer is wearing may or may not be available to the average rider. Suit makers also use their sponsored riders for product testing and product development. Many of the suits worn by pro racers are not yet available to the public, because the manufacturer puts time, money and energy into getting feedback from their sponsored riders for products that are not yet released yet. This information is then taken back to the lab and used to build next generation protection products.

Check - How To Buy A Leather Motorcycle Suit - Motostrano.com - for more Jacket/suit fittment.

-Gloves-


Brands (Best, Better, Good)

Tier 1 - Alpinestars, Held, Spidi, Dianese, RS Taichi, Teknic, Vanson, etc.
Tier 2 - AGV Sport, AXO, Cortech, Fieldsheer, Icon, Shift, etc.
Tier 3 - First Gear, Joe Rocket, Power Trip, Tour Master, etc.


Types

There are two main types of leather gloves: long (gauntlet) and short.

This is a personal preference, but the gauntlet style does offer better protection (OBV ) because the glove extends up and over your jacket/suit sleeve. This can prevent the jacket's sleeve from riding up your arm in the event of an accident, and also prevents dirt and debris from entering.


Fitment

When trying on gloves, make sure to flex your hand in all directions. Curl your hand into a fist, and see if your fingertips are trying to "break through" the glove. Remember that leather stretches, so if it feels snug/tight at first, but has the correct dimensions (finger length, palm width, etc) then you're spot on.


From Newenough.com -

When it comes to your hands, they must be protected. A good pair of leather gloves is a necessity to keep you from tearing the palms of your hands off in even a minor accident. It is just natural to put your hand down to protect yourself when you feel your bike going down or if you get thrown. I have seen people with horrible injuries to their hands from a minor accident, injuries they would have never received had they worn gloves.


FAQ: How do I know what size gloves to order? Can I measure?

It’s best to order gloves in the size you normally wear. Most (but not all) gloves are pretty consistent
in size from one brand to another, so if you have bought size “Large” in the past, then you’d have a
pretty safe bet in ordering a large.

If you have no idea what size glove to buy and have no past experience in buying gloves, you can
measure your hand. We suggest you use a cloth tape measure. You can get a range of
measurements depending upon how much you try to make your hand wide and flat. We get the best
fit by using the largest measurement you can get (by making your palm as wide and flat as possible
with the thumb sticking straight out). We used a “handy dandy” Held measuring device in the picture
below to illustrate where to measure, but any cloth tape measure will do. After getting a
measurement, use the chart below to convert the measurement to an alpha size:

Actual Hand
Measurement Alpha Glove Size
6.5”-7.5” ----- Small
7.5”-8.5” ----- Medium
8.5”-9.5” ----- Large
9.5”-10.5” ----- XL
10.5”-11” ----- XXL


How to Measure your Hand:





For more info on glove sizing, visit - FAQ: How do I know what size gloves to order? Can I measure? :: New Enough, LTD

-Boots-


Brands (Best, Better, Good)

Tier 1 - Alpinestars, Sidi, Oxtar (TCX), Dainese, Gaerne, Puma, etc.
Tier 2 - AGV Sport, AXO, Joe Rocket, Teknic, etc.
Tier 3 - Power Trip, Nitro, Icon, etc.


Styles

- Racing boots cant/lean forward to mimic the leg's angle while riding.
- Sport boots differ from all-around touring or cruising boots in the angle of the upper.
- A touring boot typically has a right angle, and are easier to walk in since they don't cause that clumsy ski-boot effect. ()



Check out this video from SportbikeTrackGear.com. It'll give you a general idea of what a race boot should look and function like:

YouTube - Oxtar TCS EVO RX Boots review Sportbiketrackgear.com



Sizing

Sizing across all manufacturers varies, but tends to run true to your natural shoe size. Typically, makers size their boots in European Sizes. Below is a chart for comparison:

Euro -- US
42 ----- 8
43 ----- 9
44 ----- 9.5
45 ----- 10.5
46 ----- 11.5
47 ----- 12
48 ----- 12.5


Fitment

We ask a lot from our motorcycle riding boots. They need to be comfortable enough for long rides and walks, yet sturdy enough to protect our feet during a fall. They must provide a superior amount of traction, but not wear out easily. A motorcycle boot should also protect our feet from cold wind and rain, yet not lock in moisture as we sweat our way through the summer riding season.

Though many people don't realize it, choosing the right motorcycle boot can not only be quite difficult, but also extremely important ensuring comfort, safety and function to your motorcycle ride. Motorcycle boots not only have to be practical for riding, but for walking as well. Here are the top five things to consider when choosing the right motorcycle boot:

5. Material

Motorcycle boots need to be made from a material that can handle the elements well. While many people feel leather is the ideal material choice, once exposed to the elements leather can stiffen and become uncomfortable, as well as rot. If you must have leather boots, make sure they are made with thick, quality leather and treated with a water proofing agent. You may also choose a synthetic material such as Gore-Tex which is excellent for almost any weather condition.

4. Sole

Choosing motorcycle boots with thick rubber soles will help absorb vibration from the motorcycle that can cause foot and leg pain. A deep tread pattern is essential for traction and stability. Choose a sole that is oil-resistant to help prevent slippage. And most importantly, choose a sole that has been sewn on, rather than glued with a bonding agent, as these are much more durable.

3. Flexibility

Boots should be stiff enough that they offer reinforcement to the foot, but should also be flexible in key areas to help with comfort. Many brands of motorcycle boots offer a flexible ankle panel, that is excellent for braking and shifting. You can also bind boots with additional reinforcements in the front of the boot for the ankle for extra support, but will also still allow you to have the flexibility you need.

2. Style

By style, we don't mean the fashion statement your motorcycle boots are going to make. The style of the boot refers to how it's made. When purchasing motorcycle boots, it's best to avoid slip on style boots, as these can easily slip off in the event of a crash or even minor spill. Instead, you should choose boots that lace or zipper to close. There are even hook and loop closure boots that you can choose from, as well as boots made with a combination of these closures. Any of these three options will provide a boot that is securely attached to your foot, and prevent the risk of having your boot come off while riding or in the event of an accident. For large or small calves, consider boots that close at the top or entirely with large swatches of hook-and-loop fastener. Uncovered zippers introduce wind and water.

1. Price

When it comes to motorcycle boots, the old adage, "You get what you pay for" definitely holds true. While it may not seem that important to you to pay a great deal of money for you boots, it is definitely worth your while to do so. Purchasing cheaply made, poor quality boots can lead to foot pain, difficulties in braking and shifting or even having your boots fall apart if you get caught in a rain storm. Even if you can't afford a top of the line pair of motorcycle boots, you should still avoid purchasing low quality boots and instead try and find something in between.

-Back Protectors and Hard Armor-


For info on Back protectors or hard body armor, check this thread: Back Protectors, Testing, and CE Standards

-Vendors-

The best place to buy gear isn't always the place with the best price. CUSTOMER SERVICE is the name of the game, although price should be a close second. I, personally, don't mind paying a bit more for great service. In the long run, it will save you time and money should you ever have a problem with an order.


First, check with the forum sponsors. They are always helpful when it comes to sizing and ordering, and typically, offer some sort of discount to us.

R6Central.com - Forum Sponsors


If for some reason the forum sponsors can't find what you're looking for, check these sites out:

- New Enough - New Enough Motorcycle Apparel sells motorcycle jackets, pants and suits, boots, gloves, helmets, etc :: New Enough, LTD

- KneeDraggers - KneeDraggers.com - Sportbike Parts, Accessories, and Apparel

- Motostrano - Alpinestars, Akrapovic, FMF, SUPERMOTO - motostrano.com

- RideGear - Motorcycle Helmets, Motorcycle Accessories from RideGear.com

- Motocycle Superstore - Motorcycle Superstore - Motorcycle Accessories and Motorcycle Gear